Recent Comments where is the finished project picture? by looking at this it look simple good job. [more] I'd like to see the finished project also. What stops people from falling in the hole? [more]

Egress-Window Install

Here's how to do it yourself

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If you’re considering finishing your basement, you’ll probably need to install an egress window — not just to add  natural light but to provide an escape (or allow rescuers to enter) in an emergency.

You can learn about important considerations related to installing an egress window in the September/October 2008 issue of HANDY (“Installing an Egress Window,” p. 24). The photos show the installation of a large double-casement window in a wall that had no existing window. Although a skilled DIYer could attempt a project of this scale, in most cases it’s best left to a professional.

Here we tackle a more manageable installation that many DIYers could handle: replacing a typical 30-in.-wide basement awning window with a single casement egress window. We did the work using tools available at most rental centers, and the project costs roughly $500 for tools and materials. Here’s how we did it, step by step.

Step 1: Always call for a utilities check before you do any digging. Despite this frequent warning, it’s amazing how often utility lines are cut (photo 1).

Step 2: Dig the hole. You can dig it yourself (photo 2), but if your soil is tough, consider renting a mini-excavator and trailer (about $300 a day) or hiring a contractor (about $500).

Step 3: Determine the window-hole size. Add the thickness of the rough frame to the required rough-opening dimensions. For this installation, we were able to make the opening the same width as the existing basement window. The cutting lines are marked on the inside and outside of the foundation wall (photo 3).

Step 4: Cut the hole. We cut from both sides of the foundation wall using a gas-powered masonry saw (photo 4). A fan placed in the opening helps to exhaust saw fumes from the basement, and multiple layers of plastic around the inside work area help to contain the dust. Wear coveralls, gloves, goggles and a respirator for protection.

Step 5: Break out the wall blocks. We used an impact hammer and maul (photo 5). Fortunately, most of the blocks came out as single pieces.

Step 6: Build the rough frame. We constructed the frame with 2x12s and then leveled, shimmed and secured it in the opening with masonry screws (photo 6).

Step 7: Fill gaps between the foundation and rough frame. Expanding spray-foam insulation (photo 7) makes this job quick and easy.

Step 8: Fasten the galvanized window well to the house with masonry screws (photo 8). We filled the bottom of the well with 6 to 9 in. of noncompacting gravel and then backfilled the soil around the sides of the well.

Step 9: Install the window in the rough frame. We used silicone caulk to seal under the window and behind the attachment flanges (photo 9).

Step 10: Install exterior trim as necessary. In our case, some of the exterior trim on the foundation wall had to be furred out to bring it flush with the stucco (photo 10). We installed drip-cap flashing above the window before adding the top trim piece.

Step 11: Add a ladder if necessary (photo 11). A permanent ladder, steps or terraced levels are required if the well is more than 44 in. deep. The ladder rungs must be no wider than 12 in. and spaced no more than 18 in. apart, and the ladder may encroach on the well dimensions by no more than 6 in.