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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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I have this problem with this furnace. I turn it on.it's ignitor lights up. the burner came on for a few second. it went off. the reductor fan stay running. I cut it off . try again, the ignitor comes on the burners will not comes on. what is my problems?
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Joined: 7/17/2007
Posts: 248
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I would guess that it could be a ignitor that is going bad, a week flame, or a bad ignition module. If you have a clamp on ammeter you can clamp it around one of the leads going to the ignitor, when it is heating up the amperage should be around 3-4 amps (I don't work on Goodmans so this is a guesstamation) and should stay above 1.5 amps after the burner is lit. Hot surface ignitors are very fragile, do not attempt to clean it, they break real easy. I think JRYAN works on this sort of stuff he can probably give you better advice.
Do it right the first time, not counting all the trial and errors of course
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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I put in a new pressure switch and flame roll out sensor. the gas valve makes a shhing nosie the ignitor takes 10 second to light up and that when the gas valve sshing noise began. the burners comes on. later the burners go out. what are the oyher possiblities of the problems? how you know when you have a bad iginotor or flame sensor?
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Joined: 11/5/2009
Posts: 3
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Check your ground.. make sure you have a good earth ground. Your flame sensor will not work without one. If you have Ignitor glow, you hear your gas valve click and the inducer runs all the time try to take the exhaust pipe off and see if yor funace will fire. Don't leave it run very long just to see if it lites. Give those things a try and let me know . any ?'s drop a msg Woody
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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no my furnace will not light when I take the exhaust off. I just put a flame sensor on same problem. someone said it might be a high limit. what that?
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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noone answer my question yet.I replaced the flame sensor. same prolem. could it be the heat anticipator located in the themostat? I notice it was only two wire located in the theromostrat( not color coded either just old wire) it a old mercury themostat it thermator alway stay at 60 degrees. is there anyone out there know any thing about furnace?
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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I forgot to mention it is a goodman furnace model GMP 075-3 rev B
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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the furnace led light is steady does that mean the furniture is okay? so could it be the themostrat malfuction? help here you all
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Joined: 7/17/2007
Posts: 248
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there should be a list of error codes to match the LED flashes on the furnace door or in the manual.
Do it right the first time, not counting all the trial and errors of course
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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threre is a code on the door for led flahing but it not flashing like I said earlier. threrefore as far as that goes everything is alright. the thr real problem was the elcentronic control board. it runs about 140.00 dollars
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Joined: 6/13/2007
Posts: 779
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Did you replace the board or have it replaced?? Or did the problem go away?
I had flashing lights on my Lenox a couple years after it was installed, all I did was reseat the connectors to the board a couple times and it has run error free for the past few years
--
Click to learn more about me The Wood Wizard
SE Wisconsin
Member since 2000
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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no I bought a new board that wasn't the problem. I was told this by a technician by united heating and cooling on 4004 E. eight mile detroit mi 48234. I put the old one back on and the light blink three times. the new one did not blink it just had a steady light.accord to the door panel three blink means the pressure switch close.or the vent clogged or venter clogged what this a venter?
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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fterall I called in a techinican found out that the old board was malfuction and the heat exchange was crack need a new furnace
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Joined: 1/29/2008
Posts: 53
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I guess we don't have a heating or cooling member in this club or they just want to keep the secret to themselves
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Joined: 6/4/2008
Posts: 309
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Kelvingriffith; IMHO the members who provided advice to you, did a good job. Your next to last post indicated that you heat exchanger is cracked, this REQUIRES a new furnace. At this point, we can no longer offer advice. It is now your decision, which brand of furnace are you going to have installed. Try and have a good day.
Gregg M.
(Seabeck, WA)
18 years of fix'n
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Joined: 6/13/2007
Posts: 939
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kelvingriffith wrote:I guess we don't have a heating or cooling member in this club or they just want to keep the secret to themselves
As indicated by gmaint, you have to ASK A QUESTION before anyone here KNOWS WHAT YOU WANT HELP WITH.
In one post you stated that United Heating & Cooling told you your old board was good and you put the old one back in. Then in the next post you state that the technician said the old board malfunctioned and you had a 'crack' in your heat exchanger AND WOULD YOU WOULD NEED TO GET A NEW FURNACE PORTION. NO QUESTION WAS ASKED!
Was it the SAME TECHNICIAN that checked it both times? Sounds like CONFLICTING DIAGNOSIS in reference to the circuit card. Did he SHOW YOU where the heat exchanger was cracked? I'm not a HVAC tech, but I don't see where the 'cracked heat exchanger' would have caused your ORIGINAL PROBLEM/SYMPTOM if the tech said your old card was OK on the first service call, but BAD on the second service call???? How old is your heater unit?
BTW:
This is the beginning of the HEATING SEASON and I'm sure that most HVAC techs are REAL BUSY WORKING and don't have time to check the forums DAILY. Making 'smart' or 'critical' comments only TENDS TO GET YOU ON MEMBERS "IGNORE" LIST. You might want to take that into consideration BEFORE MAKING NEGATIVE COMMENTS .
Slug-Gunner - - - Augusta, GA - - - Keep an "Open Mind" = You'll NEVER STOP LEARNING!
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Joined: 6/4/2008
Posts: 309
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SG; thanks, I had to wait a few days to post on this one
Gregg M.
(Seabeck, WA)
18 years of fix'n
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